Sewing 101: Your Guide to Top Brands, Machines, Stitches, Needles, and More

Using a sewing machine can be daunting for beginners. Between different brands and machines, as well as the many varying types of tools and accessories, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. 

This article is a comprehensive guide to sewing.  We're going to cover the most popular brands, the different types of sewing machines, types of stitches, needles, threads, bobbins and even some patterns.

Whether you’re looking for the right type of machine to purchase, are unsure of which needle and thread are right for your project, or need a fun pattern to get started with, we’ve got you covered.

If you want to jump to a specific section you can use the guide below.

There are numerous sewing machine brands out there, but a few stand apart from the rest.

Brother, Singer, and Janome are the leading names in sewing today, with a wide range of available machines for many purposes.

 Praised for functionality, reliability, and innovation, these brands all have something special to offer.

Brother has several categories of home sewing machines, including:

• Standard sewing
• Embroidery
• Sewing and embroidery combination
• Multi-needle
• Sergers
• Sewing/quilting

Brother frequently develops new sewing machine models in order to keep up with new and innovative technology. Additions including Quick-Set™ bobbin, Automatic Height Adjuster™, and My Custom Stitch™ are exclusive to the Brother brand, putting the company at the forefront of the sewing machine industry.

If you'd like to see some reviews on Brother sewing machines you can see them here.

The Singer brand is entirely dedicated to sewing products and was established in 1851 when Isaac Singer patented the first-ever practical sewing machine. Today, the brand is known for their reliable, classically-designed machines.

Singer sells electronic and mechanical sewing machines as well as sergers and embroidery machines. The brand’s product range has something for everyone with basic models for utility needs, advanced machines with high-tech features, and everything in between.

Janome remains at the head of the sewing machine industry by making innovation a priority in their products. 

Being the first brand to release a computerized home sewing machine in 1979 and a long-arm home quilting machine in 2003, Janome’s cutting-edge technology is remarkable. 

Instead of pushing a button to achieve a certain stitch length, for example, you’ll rotate a dial to the desired measurement.

Computerized machines are the most expensive models but also offer the widest range of advanced features.

Beyond the basic sewing machine categories, sewing machines differ in the features they offer. These features make a big difference in how the machine operates and will greatly impact which machine is the right fit for you.

Consider these common sewing machine features:

• Automatic needle threader: If you often strain your eyes when struggling to get your thread through the eye of a needle, then look for a machine with an automatic needle threader. This feature does the work for you, getting your machine ready to go quickly.
• LCD screen: Electronic and computerized machines often have a built-in LCD screen for making accurate stitch adjustments.
• Free arm: Cylindrical pieces for garment construction, including collars, cuffs, and pant hems, can be tricky to maneuver. That’s why many sewing machines have a built-in free arm, which separates the layers of these pieces for more convenient stitching.
• Built-in light: While you’re sewing, you need to be able to see small, detailed stitches with clarity. Some machines have a built-in light bulb to illuminate your workspace, no matter what the light conditions in the room are.
• Sewing speed:  You’ll often see sewing machines advertise the ability to sew a certain number of stitches per minute. Most machines intended for at-home use have a sewing speed of under 1,000 stitches per minute; heavy-duty machines generally have a speed of over 1,000 stitches per minute.
• Foot control vs. stop/start button: Sewing machines are traditionally controlled with a foot pedal. You press on the pedal with the right amount of pressure for how quickly you want to sew. Modern machines often also have a stop/start push button, granting you the option to operate the machine manually.

Stitches are, of course, an extremely important element of machine sewing. Machines come with varying selections of stitches; while one model may have 10 built-in stitches, another could have a selection of 150 stitches.

It’s crucial to note that when it comes to stitches, more is not always better. If you’re only purchasing a sewing machine for basic projects and won’t make use of over 100 stitches, (many of which would be decorative), then you’ll be better off with a smaller stitch selection.

Utility stitches are basic stitches that are used for the majority of at-home projects, like straightforward repairs and construction. When a machine has a limited selection of stitches, it likely only includes utility stitches, such as:

• Straight stitch: This stitch is the most basic machine sewing stitch. It creates a line of straight, identical stitches. Use it for any basic project.
• Double needle stitch: This stitch creates two rows of straight stitches using two needles.
• Basting stitch: Basting is a technique that’s used to keep fabric in place temporarily, usually for gathering or when tailoring a piece of clothing. Sewing machines often include a basic stitch so that you don’t have to do it by hand.
• Locking/tacking stitch: When you want to knot off the end of a row of stitches, use a locking stitch, (also called a tacking stitch). It will automatically end the row with a hidden knot. There is also often a stitch option that will automatically tie off the stitch at the beginning and end of a row.
• Zigzag stitch: The zigzag stitch can serve several purposes: to provide additional give in a seam for stretch materials, to easily finish off raw edges, and to span a larger area of fabric when attaching trims or appliques. Zigzag stitches can also be used for satin stitching because rows of stitches are aligned close together.
• Overcasting stitch: An overcasting stitch is used to finish the edge of a fabric neatly.
• Blind hem stitch: As you’ve probably guessed, a blind hem stitch is used to create a blind hem, which is when two pieces of material are sewn together to create a seam that can’t be seen from the front.
• Knit stitch: When finishing edges using knit fabrics, use this stitch to handle the stretchiness of the material more easily.
• Stretch stitch: You can use a stretch stitch for general sewing with stretch materials. Using either the stretch stitch or the knit stitch keeps seams from popping or becoming wavy.
• Triple stretch stitch: When you need a stronger stitch for stretch fabrics, you can use a triple stretch stitch, which creates three rows of stitches that alternate going forward and backward for added durability.

Another type of stitch that you’ll find built into most modern sewing machines is a buttonhole stitch. To make the process of creating a buttonhole simpler, many machines include several stitch choices, such as:

• Automatic buttonhole: With an automatic buttonhole stitch, just input the size of your button into the machine--it will create a perfectly sized buttonhole on its own.
• Basic buttonhole: Use this stitch to create a buttonhole with squared-off ends.
• Rounded buttonhole: As the name suggests, this stitch will create a buttonhole with rounded ends. It’s typically used for thin, delicate materials.
• Keyhole buttonhole: A keyhole buttonhole has one end that’s rounded end and one end that’s square. This type of buttonhole has more width when opened to accommodate big buttons.
• Knit buttonhole: This stitch is specifically for use with knits.
• Stretch buttonhole: This buttonhole will have fairly open stitches for use on stretchy materials.

In addition to buttonhole stitches, many machines include a button stitch. This stitch goes through the holes of a button to secure it in place.

You’ll typically need a button sewing foot to perform this stitch. When you see a sewing machine that has hundreds of built-in stitches, the odds are that many of those options will be decorative stitches.

Decorative stitches are intended to add extra flair to your projects and come in many varieties. You’ll see stitches that create decorative hems, flowers, scrolls, borders, hearts, etc.

Satin stitches are another way to add visual interest to your projects. These stitches are sewn tightly together for a look that’s similar to embroidery, creating designs like scallops, zigzags, diamonds, and more.

Selecting the right type of needle to use is essential for successful machine sewing. There are multiple kinds of sewing needles available for use with different types of materials.

Make sure to select the appropriate needle for the fabric you’re sewing; otherwise, you may end up with sloppy stitching or even damaged material.

• Universal point needle: A universal point needle is great for use on a variety of projects, including those using knit or woven fabrics. Sewing machines generally have this type of needle included in the box.
• Ballpoint needle: Specifically intended for use with knit fabrics, ballpoint needles have a rounded point. This ensures that the tip won’t get snagged or caught on knit materials.
• Sharp point needle: Use sharp point needles to work through materials that are closely woven, to complete topstitching projects, and to create exceptionally precise stitches.
• Denim/jeans needle: Use a denim needle, (also called a jeans needle), to sew through thick, heavy-duty materials. This type of needle has a reinforced blade to go through heavy materials cleanly.
• Stretch needle: Stretch needles are intended for use with elastic and extra stretchy materials such as spandex.
• Twin needle: You can make two rows of stitches at the same time using a twin needle, which is two connected needles. Make sure to use a twin needle that spans an appropriate distance for your machine’s stitch plate.
• Topstitch needle: A topstitch needle has an eye with additional length for straight, precise stitching no matter what type of thread you’re using.
• Metallic needle: Since metallic thread can become brittle and break easily, you need to use a specific metallic needle when working with this specialty thread.
• Embroidery needle: Embroidery needles have an extra large eye to ensure that embroidery thread doesn’t knot or tangle.
• Quilting needle: Quilts have added thickness and require a special type of needle, which has a somewhat rounded point and tapered body.
• Leather needle: It’s important to use this special type of needle whenever you’re sewing leather so that you don’t damage or make holes in the material.

Once you’ve found the perfect needle for a project, you’ll also need the right type of thread. Thread comes in countless varieties, each differing in material, construction process, color, etc.

These are the main categories of thread for sewing machines:

• All-purpose: You’ll likely use all-purpose thread for the majority of your projects. It’s made of either polyester or polyester wrapped in cotton for durability with some flexibility.
• Heavy duty: Sometimes called upholstery thread, heavy duty thread is made entirely of polyester. It’s great for use with thick or heavy fabrics like leather, canvas, vinyl, or upholstery fabric.
• Invisible: Invisible thread is used to create stitches that blend into the fabric, but it can be tricky to use and may gradually lose its elasticity. It’s constructed of polyester or nylon; note that nylon can melt when exposed to extreme heat, (i.e. an iron).
• Metallic: Metallic thread is used to achieve a beautiful visual effect because of its shine. However, it tends to break more easily than other types of thread.
• Cotton: Cotton thread has no pliancy, creating a smooth, satiny look. It can be used for many types of basic projects but shouldn’t be used with knit materials.
• Silk: Due to its thinness, flexibility, and ability to not leave holes in fabric, silk thread is an excellent choice for basting and embroidery. It’s also a good choice when working with silk and wool fabrics.
• Elastic: For shirring and smocking, you can use elastic thread, which simply has a thin, elastic center.
• Quilting: Quilting thread for machine use is made entirely of cotton. It has great strength and shine.
• Embroidery: Made of either polyester or rayon, machine embroidery thread is great for decorative purposes but shouldn’t be used for practical projects, such as clothing construction.
• Topstitch: Topstitch thread is thicker than other thread types and is made of either polyester surrounded by cotton or heavy-duty polyester. It’s generally used for decorative stitches and seams and must be used with a large topstitching needle.

When selecting a thread for machine sewing, double check to make sure that you’re not accidentally purchasing a hand sewing thread. Thread for hand sewing, hand quilting, and hand embroidery are constructed differently than thread intended for machine use and could ruin your project.

It’s worth it to spend a little extra money and purchase high-quality thread instead of a less expensive alternative. Cheap thread will break easily and you’ll end up going through more spools of thread than you would with a slightly pricier, but well made, option.

Choose a thread that matches the color of the fabric you’re using. When you’re unable to get a thread that matches, choose one that’s slightly darker over one that’s lighter in color; dark thread will be less noticeable.

The bobbin is yet another crucial component to machine sewing. It’s a small spool that holds thread for the machine to use for certain types of stitches.

The bobbin must be wound with thread before it’s set into a sewing machine. Sewing machines usually have either a push/pull bobbin winder or an automatic declutch winder.

With both of these setups, you’ll use a foot pedal to control the winding of thread onto the bobbin; the difference is:

• Push/pull bobbin winder: Before winding the bobbin, you’ll push the winding pin to the right to lock it. Once the bobbin is fully wound, pull it back to the left.
• Automatic declutch bobbin winder: An automatic declutch bobbin winder provides the safety of preventing the needle from moving while the bobbin is being wound. It will also automatically stop once the bobbin is fully wound with thread.

When sewers run into trouble with their machines, it’s often because of the bobbin. Check out these tips to prevent bobbin-related issues:

• Make sure you’re using the right type of bobbin for your machine. The size and material of the bobbin can drastically affect the machine’s tension settings and the quality of the stitches it produces.
• Be conscientious when setting your bobbin. Sewing machines are designed for the bobbin to spin in a certain direction, so check the manual before you start.
• Be sure not to overfill the bobbin with thread, as doing so can cause a number of issues in the bobbin compartment.
• Always have extra bobbins on hand. You’ll need more than you think since different projects often require different types of thread.
• Any form of damage to a bobbin can throw off your machine’s functionality. If you accidentally drop a bobbin, check it for dents or other issues before using it.

Tension is another element of machine sewing that can cause trouble for sewers. When your machine’s tension is off, you’ll be able to tell because the thread will pucker, create loops, and just generally create sloppy stitches.

Setting your machine up correctly can help prevent tension issues. When you’re threading the machine, keep the presser foot in the up position. Set the spool in place, unwind about a foot and a half of thread, and pull it taut.

Then, you can just click the thread into the tension disks. Your machine’s tension regulator controls the distance between the tension disks.

When the disks are closer together, the tension level is higher. When they’re further apart, the tension is lower.